Today we trekked 19.86 miles to the small village of Atapuerca after passing several other small villages, and even San Juan de Ortega, which is the main designation stopping point noted in the guide books. We did the further trek today to break the pattern of following the majority of pilgrims that stop at those designated stopping points. 

Unfortunately it appears others thought of the same thing and we had a difficult time finding a hostel or hotel. We stopped Ages, the first village north of San Juan de Ortega, but found the only accommodation, a hostel, full. When we got to Atapuerca the best of two hostels already had one group of pilgrims waiting for the absent clerks return. We were number two in line, and after twenty minutes there was a pretty big crowd. Fearing that it might be full anyway, we went to the other hostels and took two of the last four beds left. It was only five euros each ($5.60), but we saw why. It was one dorm with approximately twenty beds and definitely not the nicest. We had no other choice as the only hotel there was booked and the next town was five miles further. If I had had my tent I would have preferred it.

One of the Americans, Kevin, that I had met on the Camino was staying at the hotel adjacent to our hostel and offered us the shower in his room. That was great! 

A group of pilgrims had gathered outside on the lawn to rest and all eleven of us ended up going to dinner together. There were three Irish women, two British men, one Dutchman,  three American men and one woman, and one man from Belgum. We sat on an outside patio area and it was a little like in the movie The Way. It was a lot of fun and we all had a great time. Dinner was very good and included bottles of wine, and because the waitress owner thought we were nice, a special after diner drink. Everything was around $13 each. 

We would gave closed the place down but we left a little before ten as the hostel has a lights out at ten rule. I guess it’s necessary because all the people there, but it limits your social time at night. 

Getting back to the hostel was a big change in my mood, from having a lot of fun to trying to be quite and getting ready for bed. Most of the people were already asleep, and snoring, and the four of us staying there were like delinquents sneaking in after curfew. Monica and I had only the choice of the top bunk, not my favorite. The ladder up was at the end of the metal bunk bed and it was loose. Clank, clank, went the ladder as I climbed up. Half hour later, clank, clank, as I prepared to climb down to go to the bathroom. Ouch! Ouch! Ouch! Cramp in my calf as I was scooting onto the edge of the bed and turned my leg around so I could feel the steps of the ladder. Jumped back on the bed so I could straighten up my leg to ease the pain and keep from screaming! Clank, clank, went the loose ladder of course. After a minute I was able to get rid of the cramp, and of course, clank, clank, as I finally made it down. Phew! 

Ok, now back up the ladder. Let’s see if I can do this without waking the whole room. Of course not! Clank, clank, but I finally laid my head on my blow up pillow. But, where is my sleeping bag?! Sure enough as I peered over the edge of the bed I could see it was on the floor. If only I had my trekking poles, I could grab or poke it and pull it up. Oh well, here it goes again. Scoot to the end of the bed, there’s that cramp again. Wait, this time I caught it in time and stretched my leg out well over the edge to keep from getting the cramp. Clank, clank, down and up, and I am finally back in bed. I looked over the edge of the bed one more time to see if I dropped anything else? Phew, all I could see or hear was the German lady in the lower bunk snoring in unison with three other people in the room. Well, at least I didn’t wake her! What a surprise! 

No more upper bunks for me, and maybe even hostels if I can help it. But part of it was my fault for staying out so late for diner and company. But the greet company and fun was worth it. 

The night before in Delorado Monica and I also had gone to diner with an older Dutch couple that we had met days before. We went to another nice restaurant with great good. They only serve two times a night and it is by reservations only. We found that out after waiting in line for almost twenty minutes, but we joked our way in the the materde. Dinner was very good, and of course it included a bottle of wine, and was only ten euros ($11.20).

We walked back on one of the main avenues and found that there are brass foot and hand imprinted squares set into the ground all along the avenue. Most were of famous Spanish people, athletes, stars, etc., but we saw one by Emilio Estevas, the producer of the movie The Way, which centers around the Camino de Santiago. That was a find. 

Today was a long day, but the terrain was fairly flat so it wasn’t quite as bad. Monica’s ended up with two more blisters on both her heels. I keep hoping I can avoid them but there is no guarantee as even though the terrain was fairly level, it was rough and uneven and wears hard on your feet. I have to admit that it is more challenging than I had thought, but it’s been worth it for the experience and places and people we have seen and met. 

Atapuerca is actually a UNESCO World Heritage site because it’s the place where the remains of the earliest human remains were found. The caves and the mueseum are just on the outskirts of town.

Tomorrow we will hopefully have a short and easy day to Burgos. It’s a large town similar to Pamplona. We may stay town days and pamper ourselves with a private room in s hostel or even a hotel.

Best wishes to all,

Ted

Leaving Delorado

The Camino on the outskirts of Delorado

Church steeple with stroke nests

House built into cliff behind church 

Hand and foot print of Emilio Estevas 

The Camino through a village

Memorial marker for the remains recently found of the people executed and dumped in a mass grave by General Franco regime in the 1930s. Note the sweat!

Sign for the remains found of early man in Atapuerca

Our diner group from the left, Irish (unk), Irish (unk), British (Kevin), American (Kevin), American (me, Ted), American (Monica), Dutch (Himo), Belgian (out of view), American (Jen), British (Steve), Irish (unk).