Wednesday, June 8, Day 17 on the Camino

Today I made it to the little village of Calzadilla de las Cueza, which is not one of the major stopping points on the Camino. I trekked about 21 miles (34 km) and stopped here because Monica had decided to start back up and got a cab here from Burgos.

Today started off with a slight uphill and the Camino ran along the highway for about the first hour. The path was narrow and was a little difficult to maneuver with the Wheelie, so I moved onto the highway, which was so much easier. There was very little traffic and the shoulder was wide enough to stay out of the traffic lane. One of the things I noticed when I moved onto the highway was how little litter there was, almost shockingly so. As a matter of fact, I have notice very little, if any along the Camino, and even in the cities and small villages. I would have to say much, much, cleaner than in the U.S.
The weather was almost identical to yesterday, hot! It was warm when I started and it got to 94 by afternoon. That was probably why everyone was gone from the hostel in the morning and I was the last to leave at 7:30. Just like yesterday, today when I got to Carrion de los Cones, a major stopping point, it was a bee hive of pilgrim activity. But when I left after noon I thought I had gone the wrong way because there was no one on the Camino. Between Carrion and here I only saw five other pilgrims, and I passed them all.
Funny, but I saw the three Polish men that I had diner with last night laying under shade trees and with their boots off. They were nice guys but seemed a little macho and they made it a point to tell everyone that they go at least 40 kilometers (about 25 miles) every day, and that they always leave by six in the morning. As I mentioned, I left about 7:30, and stopped for at least a half hour for breakfast. Yes, I stopped for breakfast because it was included in the price of the stay last night but apparently they ate most of it before anyone else got up. So I got a kick out of stopping to talk with them and leave then laying there overheated. Northern Europeans from cold climates, funny.
Walking today reminded me a lot of my solo treks and today was actually very pleasurable because of that, even in the heat. And the heat didn’t really bother me because it just felt like home.
Walking with time on your hand, sometimes you just can’t help but let your mind drift or play games. I probably walk a little faster than average and know that I have some endurance, so it’s always funny for me to see people fly by me. I always think they are either Day Walkers, having their bags transported to their designated hotels, or they might just have started the Camino and haven’t learned how to pace tgemselves. So today, after I had a good rythem going, I could hear someone slowly catching up to me. It was already pretty warm by then too. I could hear the clicking of the trekking poles getting closer and closer, but I could sense they were picking it up to pass me. Fine I thought, I am in no race. So then a woman passes with an extra burst of speed, followed by her male companion. Light day packs, Day Walkers!
Well, all of a sudden we hit an uphill grade and I see the woman struggle a bit and slow her pace ever so slightly. I of course kept my good rythem going and I am starting to catch up to them. But I could tell that her macho male companion won’t let that happen, so he passed her and picks up his pace even more. Ok Day Walker, I know you’ll burn out, so let’s see what you’ve got. I keep my pace steady and fairly close behind him, and the female is now twenty to thirty feet behind us. Up the hill we continue and I am slowly gaining on him, but not really picking up my speed, just steady. The woman is now fifty feet behind us and falling. And then I see it, he’s breaking down. I see him wipe the sweat from his forehead. Now she’s sixty, seventy feet behind us and I see his back is totally wet. I am within four feet if him and I am sure he can hear me and he can difinately see my shadow.
Now I am thinking, when will this macho guy break? How will he do it without loosing face? Then it happened! His smooth move to stop and save his macho ego. He stops dead cold on a dime, turns, and calls to his female companion to see if she is all right. Wow, did he look sweaty and tired. But he saved face by stopping for his damsel in destress. Funny, but they caught up to me just as I was leaving the cafe after having breakfast. Who knows, they might have stopped too but it’s interesting how your mind plays those little games when you have time on your hand, but it’s fun.
When I finally met Monica at the village we only found one Albergue (hostel). I went in to look at it and it was a large dorm room with only four top bunks left. No more upper bunks for me! So we found this motel, the only other lodging in the village, and got a room. As it turns out it is also the hotel for the Day Walkers that have prearranged hotels. But they of course are just as nice as most other pilgrims.
Tomorrow we will have to make s decision on which way to continue on the Camino as there are two different routes. One further out in the country with no villages, cafes or stores, or the recommended one running parallel to the highway and going through the villages. We will see?
Best wishes to all,
Ted

The Camino