Today was a short day for me that was only about 12 miles to Leon, and then another one mile walking around town looking for a place to sleep.

Yesterday was actually one of the hardest days I have had on the Camino because I just seemed to have run out of energy. The terrain was flat and the temperature was cool, but my trekking rythem never seemed to stay with me. It’s pretty common to have up and down energy and rythem throughout the day, but yesterday I had it in the morning and lost it in the afternoon and never really got it back.

I was glad when I found the Gata Albergue yesterday because I was running out of energy. As it turned out it was one of the nicest evenings and mornings I have had on the Camino, and it turned out to be one of those memorable ones too. It totally turned my tired frame of mind around.

My evening diner was wonderful and I couldn’t have had nicer pilgrims to share it with. My three Italian roommates warned me that they would be leaving at five in the morning and said they would be quiet. I never heard them this morning and woke up at 6:30 to an empty room. I heard other pilgrims leaving, and saw the last two, who I had had diner with, leave just as I came out of the room. It was a weird feeling, and actually peaceful, being the only one left there and it was only about seven.

After I packed all my gear I went into the kitchen area to have breakfast. It was a simple breakfast of two different French breads, crisp hard toast bread, hard sweet crackers, jams, orange juice and coffee. The female owner asked how I wanted my coffee, and even though I never drink coffee, she was so willing to serve me, I said yes.

Both the owners then sat down to breakfast with me and we must have talked for at least an hour. They have been married for twenty-seven years and have no kids. He said the pilgrims were their kids, and the way they treated everyone I believe it. He has been on the Camino ten times, and she eight, and they actually met on the Camino.

I just wonder how they can make a living only charging five euros for lodging, including the breakfast? And then there is the two euro laundry that they perform, and then hang out to dry for you too. I could tell that they are truly good and caring people and their hearts are in the Camino.

I felt fortunate to have come into town and then finding the Gata Albergue. Then having a wonderful diner and then having a nice breakfast with the owners. All this really gave me a positive boost to my attitude and mood. I guess I can call that what some people refer to as “the Camino experience.”

So my day started off wonderful and probably because most other pilgrims left very early in the morning, I almost had the Camino to myself. Well, almost.

I made it to Leon, population of around 130,000, a little after noon. Walking through the first part of town was a little strange with all the high rise apartment or condo buildings after coming from those small villages. It’s interesting that Spain has all this wide open land and the majority of dwellings appears to be high rise buildings. Then it’s interesting too to see what looks like new apartments or condos built on top of structures and foundations hundreds of years old. 

The Camino continues into the old downtown area that has probably been the same for hundreds of years similar to so many Spanish town. Even though there are new sections of the city the night and weekend activity still revolves are the old downtown areas. 

Once I entered this area I felt right at home, but I was a little shocked by the number of people waking the streets. Apparently it is a festival weekend and everyone, including the Spanish tourists are in town.

I stopped at a very nice albergue (hostel) near the entrance of town and was told they were full and most other albergues were too because there was a festival this weekend. My luck! I ran into another pilgrim I had met on the Camino and he directed me to his hotel, but it was full. I ended up going to the tourist office and they recommended this hotel a few blocks from the old downtown area. It’s a private room with one bed and a shared bath, but I took it. It was 25 euros. Monica has took the bus here from Sahague and they got us another bed.

I went to the old downtown and had diner and got to see some of the festival. There were thousands of people walking the old cobble streets and there was a band playing old classic American rock and roll. One of my favorites no less, Jimmy Hendricks, Purple Haze, and a ton of others, all in English. As a matter of fact, most the music you here is all American. 

As I walked by one of the cathedral (there are two) and there were a large group of men dressed like old Spanish soldiers in their metal armor and steel helmets marching to the beat of drums. It was pretty spectacular to see it in front of the beautiful old cathedral.

There was also a group of men and women singing beautiful arcopela songs in Spanish of course, which I could not understand but was beautiful anyway. Young and old strolling the streets, kids playing soccer in the square, and people riding bikes and skating. It’s was really a nice sight and I wonder what happened to these simple pleasures in America?

Tomorrow I will head out early, well when I wake up. I won’t miss the bee hive ativity at the hostels with people rushing out for the day, but I have to admit that I miss the comrodery of the pilgrims there and you don’t get that at a hotel. I guess I just won’t tell those pilgrims staying there that we had a nice private hotel room.

Best wishes,

Ted

Leaving the village sometimes is as scenic as arriving there.

The Camino heading to Leon 

The yellow arrows pointing the way on the Camino. Sometimes easy to miss. 

Another yellow arrow. 

The bridge into Leon 

Leon, a bit overwhelming after those small villages.

Entering the old downtown of Leon past the old city fortress walls. 

The old downtown area.

One of the city plazas

Historical building in the plaza. Band singing classic American rock and roll.

The city center traffic circle 

The Leon Cathedral

Solders marching in the cathedral festival 

Solders posing for the ceremony

Cathedral in the evening as a crowd gathers to listen to the singers

Beautiful arcapela singing by a group in front of the cathedral. This was about 9:30 at night when there were thousands of people waking the plaza and downtown area.