Thursday, June 16, Day 26 on the Camino

Today we trekked about 20 miles and made it to the little village of Ruitelan,population of less than one hundred.

It was much later and longer than we had wanted to go because we had difficulty find a place to stay for the night.
I hit up at six this morning and it was raining. One of those days again where we had a nice warm hotel and the thought of starting out in the rain wasn’t appealing. There was a nice buffet breakfast and I think we dragged it out. We finally decided to go rain or shine and didn’t leave until almost nine.
As soon as we stepped out it began to rain lightly and then stopped after about twenty minutes. This actually happened at least eight to ten times all day long where we put on our rain gear

for a short period of time and then it would stop. With our rain gear on it just got too hot and we’d take it off for ten, twenty, half hour, and then it would start to rain again. We don’t have rain pants but never really got that wet when it did rain.
The Camino traveled along the old highway for much of the day and was separated by a k rail. Traffic was almost nonexistent because there is also a new super highway running parallel to the old highway.
Every few miles the signs for the Camino directions would have us cross over the highway and then onto a small road through what was noted on the map as a village but would basically be a few houses and then a cafe (called a Bar) or store. It think the purpose is to help the economy and in turn it’s really nice for the pilgrims to have a place to eat. I am sure that’s what has been happening on the Camino for hundreds of years.
These short side routes are very nice because the villages are usually the older style buildings hundreds of years old and many still have that look and feeling. Food is always very inexpensive and you can get a coffee and pastry for two usually for around five euros ($5.50). Beer on tap is any where from 1.5 to 2.0 euros. Food on the Camino is a bargain, but then again Spain is one if the cheapest places in Europe and that’s why so many Europeans go to Spain. And besides that, the Spaniards for the most part are a friendly people.
Most of the Camino today was fairly easy and with no steep climbs. We wanted to end the day close to Vega de Valcarce because it was at the bottom of the steep grade we’d have to climb tomorrow.
At Vega de Valcarce we started looking for lodging and hoped to find a albergue with a private room first, and then s hotel if we couldn’t find one. Unfortunately many people had the same idea as us and had filled up most the places we checked. We also encountered lots of new pilgrims that had just started in the last few days and many start very early in the morning and go short distances and get the albergues early.
We went through several little villages and had no luck finding either an albergue or hotel and by then it was after four, a late day for us. We noticed other people stopping at various places too and we knew we had completion for lodging. What else could go against us? Oh, it’s starting to rain fairly hard!
Just as we walked through Ruitelan we saw an albergue, but it wasn’t the most appealing looking for the outside, but beggars can’t be choosers. There was another couple just behind us so I unhooked the Wheelie and made a made dash up the steps inside. Have a private room with two beds? No, and we are nearly full, but we have a nice house down the street with a room and two beds and a private bath. Would you want that? Yes!
Well just as we were waking the half block to see the room the other couple came back to the albergue because they could not find another place either.
It turned out to be part of the albergue and a very nice newer place. Once again we were fortunate and the price was only ten euros more than two bunks in the dorm.
We went back in the evening for a communal diner at the albergue for eight euros each. There were about fifteen people and we sat next to a Danish man, a Hungarian woman, a Norwegian woman, and a couple from Las Vegas. The food was almost gourmet. Carrot soup, exotic salads, spaghetti for everyone, and special pesto Alfredo spaghetti for me, and then custard pudding. And of course, all the wine anyone wanted. The two albergue just were funny, and just so friendly that it made everyone feel at home. Great meal and company!
Tomorrow we have a steep climb ahead of us and the weather call for rain and cold temperatures. Rain or shine we will go, and hopefully we won’t have the same problem finding lodging.
Best wishes,

Ted

Villafranca Del Bierzo and another beautiful castle

Bridge on the Camino near Villafranca

Rain on and off all day

On the Camino and another beautiful old building hundreds of years old. There are just do many that there is just not enough time to see them all and learn their history.