Today we trekked about 18 miles (29 k) to the town of Arzua. I call Arzua more of a town because most of the city we traveled through was more modern with newer buildings and houses, and a small older city center. It was also one city that didn’t seem to have a beautiful large church and plaza as its business center. 
The weather has changed and was getting much warmer. Most of the Camino today was fairly level, with a few short uphills, but those short uphills always seem tougher if they are the only uphills we encountered. The terrain was still beautiful with forested areas and several stream crossings. 
The day however started out a little different as we had spent the night in Palas de Rei, which is one of the main starting and stopping points in the guides and therefore there was a flood of pilgrims on the Camino in the morning. We had planned to go beyond the next larger stopping points as most the newer pilgrims generally go the shorter distance. Many of the other pilgrims that had started in Saint John had the same thoughts since they too had noticed the difference in the feeling of the Camino. 
We traveled through many little villages with what appeared to be very nice albergues but most were not very far from where we had started and seemed to cater towards the newer pilgrims that were going shorter distances. The little small cafes that were always a welcome sight after a long day were larger and more crowded with pilgrims. Prices and attitudes also seemed a little different.
The further we went today the fewrr pilgrims we saw, so we kept going. We came to Arzua late in the afternoon because we had stopped so much and realized there was only one albergue another five miles away. Then there was not another albergue for quite some distance after that. Not wanting to take the chance of not finding lodging further ahead we decided to stay in Arzua. I checked several albergues and hotels and found most were full. 
We walked around town and found other places full too. I found one hotel that was reasonably priced but the room was on the forth floor. Here in Spain they don’t count the ground floor as one, so it was on the fifth floor without an elevator. I have no problem walking up and down stairs, but after a long day of walking I don’t relish the idea of walking five flights of stairs hauling our gear up and then going back down several times to eat, etc. 
It was almost five and we were tired and had sat in the city park for a while pondering our dilemma. We decided just to go to the next albergue five miles away.  
We went back to the Camino and started to head out of town when we saw a sign for another albergue off of a side street. Wow, were we fortunate! It was a fairly big albergue with four big dorm rooms but there were very few people there. It was off the main Camino so it was probably missed by many pilgrims. It was an older building yet very clean and with a nice atmosphere. What we have found in what makes an albergue pleasant is usually the pilgrims staying there and not necessarily the place itself. 
It was ten euros each and we had the pick of our room and beds. We ended up in a large room with twelve beds but with only three other pilgrims. They were very nice young women from Puerto Rico. 
Monica went to the local store and bought food to make a salad and some sandwiches, which was a nice change from eating out every night. Most albergues have kitchens, and this one had a nice patio and dining room area too. It’s always nice to share experiences with other pilgrims and we met some people from the Cech Republic that were also making diner. 
Today was a long day that turned out well in the end. I guess that is all part of the Camino Experience, you never know what you’ll get from day to day and that is what makes it fun and interesting. 
Since we did not go as far as we had planned today it may take us another two days on the Camino to arrive at Santiago de Compostela. We are in no rush and we will take it as it comes.
Best wishes,

Ted 

Starting the Camino in the morning with the many other new pilgrims!

Walking with Alex a nice twenty-four year old from Italy.

Some nice isolated spots on the Camino 

Alex and Monica 

Walking through Melide

The Camino over a creek

Filling up water from the many water fountains on the Camino for the pilgrims 

Locals sharing the same water fountains with the pilgrims 

Our albergue on the left

Our dorm for the night. Our bunks are the two on the far right.

Our dorm, home sweet home for the night

A nice moment on the Camino