September 16, 2016
The day started well for me even though I did not sleep more than four hours due to the jet lag with the nine hour difference. I was pretty exhausted and had no problem falling asleep but woke at 4:00 AM hungry.
I figured I’d just get up early and have plenty of slow relaxing time to start the travel day to Seville. I needed to get to the AVE train station less than a hour away. I knew the bus comes by every thirty minutes and it only takes forty minutes on the bus per Google. Goggle also had my bus and walking route mapped out, with only a ten minute walk from the bus stop to the train station.
I headed out to the bus stop about a half mile away around seven thirty. I had to walk against pretty heavy morning commute traffic and found the bus stop empty. Wow, this will be a quiet and peaceful bus trip.
By the time the bus arrived four other passengers had shown up. As I stepped into the bus I was shocked by how many people were on the bus. It was packed, standing room only, and that was even questionable. As the bus lurched forward I struggle to find a hand rail while holding the Wheelie duffel bag under my arm and trying to grab a pole with my other hand. Having a backpack on made it even worse trying to keep my balance, and I think all those bodies tightly pressed against me kept me from falling over. Oh well, I dropped the Wheelie on the ground and just hoped no one would trip over it.
I managed to back my butt and backpack into an opening between the hand poles and lean onto the wheel well humps. A few more stops and we were packed to capacity, I thought. But no, the driver kept stopping and picking up more people. I was talking to myself and saying, “no, no more.” I was near the driver and I almost yelled out, “for god’s sake man, have mercy on me, us, no more passengers, please!” By the time my claustrophobia almost completely kicked in people started to get off as we neared the end of the bus line to hell.
I have to say that most people that were pressed against me didn’t smell, probably because their morning showers, but I can’t imagine what it must be like on the return bus at the end of the day.
We finally got to the end of the line, my stop. Wow, it was hot once out of the bus and I began to sweat immediately. Now for that quick walk to the train station. But where is it? Google says its here but I am at the end of a street and it ends on a narrow pedestrian path.
I asked several people in Spanish where the AVE train station was, and I got nothing but puzzled looks and head shaking. Probably my bad Spanish! I finally found an English speaker who told me to go back where I came from and take the stairs down to Line 1 of the subway and then to the AVE train station. So that’s where Google had directed me, underground.
I was already drenched when I walked into the oven of the Seville subway system. The ticket machines were impossible for me to figure out, Spanish only, and I even had a few tourist ask me and I just looked at them puzzled and shook my head.
I just bought a ticket that was the cheapest since everyone was just going through the same turnstile anyway. Then there it was, the maze! Tunnels going in different directions marked with colored arrows. They were more like mole tunnels because they weren’t more than a few inches above six feet, nothing a tall basketball player could go through.
I saw the red number one arrow, the one I was told to take, I think? I got to the platform and asked someone if it was the right one and he told me to go to the green line. So back up the steep steps and through the mole tunnels to the green platform. Finally! Wait, I’ll ask this young man if it’s the right subway train to the AVE station. No he said, as he pointed to the other side of the tracks, that green platform. So back down the steep stairs, and through the hot mole tunnels, then up the stairs to the green platform, Line 1.
It was even hotter now but luckily the train showed up within five minutes. Getting on the train was a relief as it was air conditioned. I noticed people staring at me, and it was probably because I had a puddle of sweat under my seat.
Well, I left at 7:30 and here I am at the AVE station at 10:15, but my high speed train, that didn’t wait for me, left at 9:40 AM, on the dot!
After standing in line to ask what to do, I was directed to customer service as they usually don’t refund anything booked online. Phew! I got another ticket for the 4:00 PM train which was the only choice but it would get me to Seville after nine, and in the dark without a place to stay. My original plan was to get there early enough so I could easily find a place.
While sitting at the station I tried using McDonald’s wifi but it wasn’t strong enough for me to find and book a hotel or hostel.
The train ride was wonderful and of course air conditioned. It was fast, clean, and comfortable. It was nice to see the countryside too. It puts ur Amtrak to shame. I sat next to a nice Spanish woman that didn’t speak English. After the five hour trip I found that I was able to put together all those Spanish words I know into a sentence, well kind of. I also used my phone caricatures to make a point. It was actually a lot of fun as laughter always makes for nice conversation, and after my morning I needed laughing.
Once in Seville I found the bus going into the old downtown area near the cathedral where I will start my Camino. I met a young British man who help guide me onto the bus and where to get off.
Once off the bus, I was shocked by how many people were walking the streets. It was Friday night and the Spanish love their weekends, especially in the old downtown areas. I also found out that this was their peak tourist season in Seville as it is too hot in the summer and is the big attraction once it starts to cool down. This turned out to be my next problem, no vacancies!
I managed to log onto a wifi outside McDonalds again and found all the hostels full. I was told there were many hotels and hostels in the area, so I just started walking and stopping at least ten hotels and hostels and all were full!
I asked a security guard if he might know of one and he gave me a map and circled a few close by. The Spanish always seem to want to help if they sense you have a problem. No luck, full! I was carrying the Wheelie under my arm, and again I was completely drenched in sweat.
I was about to give up hope and thought of sleeping on the street because there are homeless people here and I’d just blend in, as I met a few as I was walking. None asked me for money because they probably felt sorry for that sweaty, stressed, looking man. Nobody would even notice me if I slept on a bench, but wait, I see a sign down a dark street. No, full.
Just as I was walked back on the dark street, I stumbled over the base of a broken off post. I fell, or almost ran, twelve to fifteen feet forward as I stepped off of the curb, all the while trying to maintain my balance, while hanging on to the Wheelie under my arm. I fell hard so hard that it was loud enough to draw attention from a few passerbys that asked if I was all right. I said si’, but I was afraid to get up because I thought for sure that I had broken something. Fortunately nothing noticeable on the outside anyway. If I had had a pad I probably would have slept right there on the spot.
I went to two more full hotels and then I saw one more down a narrow street. When I asked the clerk if he had a room and he said yes, I almost jumped over the counter to hug him.
It was pricy but at that point I didn’t care! It was after 11:30 PM by the time I walked into my room, probably ten pounds lighter from all the sweating I had done all day.
The room was very nice, and after a long hot shower I didn’t have a problem falling asleep, even with my jet lag.
My early, slow, easy, and calm day didn’t turn out that way. My real trek hasn’t even started yet and this is just the travel getting to the start! But, I look at it as all part of the experience and remind myself it’s about the journey, good or bad, and take it as it comes, because I will look back it it all, good and bad, and laugh about it. At least later!
Best wishes,
Ted
So interesting how well you handle all the confusion and adversity. I love your descriptions and how they make the situation so alive especially your description of the mole tunnels and the greens and the reds etc. I do hope the rest of your trip is much less confusing and with greater relaxation as it has proven to be in your past travels best of luck and God be with you laura.
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You go!!! I’m laughing and it is great medicine!!
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