CVdlP, Day 10, Wednesday, September 28, 2016

Zafra, Villafranca de los Barros, to Almendralejo, 26.70 miles

Today was my marathon day, as I trekked 26.70 miles. I wasn’t sure I’d end up doing it, but once I decided to go beyond Villafranca, which was about 13 miles(20.7 k), I was committed because the next town Almendralejo, was another 13 miles further.

I decided to start early and set my alarm for 5:30 AM, not my usual since I like to sleep late. I figured that if I wanted to go further I’d had to start early. It was strange to be up before anyone else, and I was headed out the door by 6:45.

It was strange to walk the streets that time of morning in a strange town and country. I could hear the dogs barking but couldn’t see them.

I also wanted to go further than the thirteen miles to make up some of the lost days I had because I was sick. I also wanted to get out of the larger group that I was in a cycle with arriving at the same towns every day. The group I originally started with was around eight, which was the number count at one of the only hostels. The group I was with now is around twelve to fifteen. It is still only a small fraction of the number of people compared to the Camino Francis, but since the places to stay are so few and far between, the chances of finding a bed is much easier in a small group arriving in a town at the same time.

Many in both groups do not plan to go all the way to Santiago, instead stopping at Merida, or other closer places, and some after a week or two.

To get out of a cycle is difficult on the Plata because towns are so far apart. There are generally no towns between the starting and ending of most day’s distances. Today I tried to trek the distance that is usually done in two days, but I didn’t have quite the energy to go the other ten miles to Torremejia, which would have been the end of a second day. I ran out of energy, and haven’t completely recovered, so I went to Almendralejo, which is about two miles off of the Camino Plata to find a place to stay.

The entire day I had only seen one other Spanish pilgrim, Angel, that I had passed outside Villafranca. I had seen him once before and had a short chat with him but he spoke no English. Just before the turnoff to Almendralejo, I passed him again and he stopped to shake my hand and told me he was also going to Almendralejo.

When I finally got there I realized that this was not a typical Camino friendly town and there probably wouldn’t be any albergues. I decided to wait for Angel and he took me along to a place he’d heard welcomed pilgrims. The lady there told us she was full and directed us to a hotel, Hostal Los Angeles.

We had to walk a few blocks and by then it was close to five. Long day and I didn’t care about the cost, and it was only 28€ and it was clean.

I asked the clerk at the hotel for a recommendation, and of course he sent me well over a half a mile. Too far after walking twenty plus miles! Not much English spoken off of the Camino and I struggled a bit with the menus. With nice service, ordering in broken Spanish is usually no problem. I had a omelette with shrimp, and green beans, so my order wasn’t bad. I sat and had and watched soccer with the locals.

Tomorrow I hope to make it all the way to Merida, which should only be about 18 miles. I hope I get there fairly early as I want to beat the heat and see some of the town.

Best wishes,

Ted

Leaving early in the morning