Sarria to Portomarin (14.00 miles/22.54 kms)

Today was a fairly short day as far as mileage, but it was a challenging long day for me overall. Of all things I am sick! I felt like I was catching something last night, and this morning it was confirmed. I woke up not feeling well and coughing, and all day I had very little energy.

Even though I wasn’t very hungry I made it a point to eat before I left the pension since they had a really nice buffet breakfast included with the room. I try to have fresh squeezed orange just in the morning and throughout the day, and I guess that vitamin C preventive doesn’t always work.

When I started today it was raining, and as much as I don’t mind walking in the rain, I wasn’t looking forward to walking in the rain feeling sick. It rained on and off most of the day and I was never able to take off my rain gear.

In Sarria the Camino starts off uphill immediately and continues uphill for the next few miles. After that it was pretty much like a roller coaster with many ups and downs, and with very few long level stretches.

The countryside in this area is very beautiful, and of course green, and in many places you walk through thick clusters of overhanging trees almost like a fantasy forest. One thing that is very noticeable in this area is the strong smell of cows, pigs, and sheep, everywhere, especially with the wet conditions now. I wish I could share those smells with you like the photos!

The terrain and surface of much of the Camino today was rutted and rocky, more than I remember. The rain has washed out much of the soil and sections are like small streams with water flowing down them.

I knew that the number of pilgrims in Sarria would increase, but I was surprised by how many there really were here. Definitely more than two years ago. It was a constant flow of people in front and behind me. And, the peek season doesn’t even start until August and I can’t imagine what it must be like then.

Everybody has their own Camino, whether it’s long, short, riding a bike, carrying your stuff, or having it transported. Mine is not any better because I started in Madrid, or some that started in Saint Jean Pied de Port or elsewhere. I take my hate off to anyone that is on the Camino, no matter how they do it. I saw several people that obviously had a hard time walking, yet they are still out here doing their Camino. This last stretch to Santiago is not the easiest leg of the Camino.

I do have to say I am a little amazed by what some of the new pilgrims were wearing even though it’s only four or five days to Santiago. I saw several with brand new white tennis shoes! In this weather and mud! Some, but very few, are still wearing sandals, but with the amount of rain it has to be tough to trudge through all the mud that’s everywhere, and places impossible to go around.

I was struggling to keep my energy level up and found myself stopping numerous times to get something to drink, including several cups of coffee. Normally I don’t drink coffee but I needed that boost. The fourteen miles today seemed more than the twenty-two miles yesterday. I was sweaty like usual, but it felt more like a cold sick sweat.

When I got to Portomarin at about three I was glade, and surprised, that I got here so quickly feeling the way I did. Feeling this way I am not sure that I will be able to continue tomorrow, so at least I am glade I am in a hotel.

I walked to the mercado and barely had the energy to walk the few blocks there and back. I bought some food so I have something to eat if I end up staying in bed tomorrow. The hotel is right next to the plaza and there are many restaurants if I do decide to go out to eat.

It’s a little frustrating to think I have trekked all this way without any real issues, including any with my new knee, and now fifty-eight miles, and about four days away, from finishing the Camino having to stop because of a cold. My flight back isn’t until June 15th, and I have plenty of time to get better if I need to rest. I am thankful I have made it here without any big issues, and I will stay positive in that I will finish the Camino.

Best wishes,

Ted

As always, please excuse the typos, grammar, and spelling, etc., because I am writing this on my phone and don’t always review my blog. And, even if I don’t review it, it’s a good excuse for my mistakes!

Leaving Sarria early in the morning

Sarria along the Rio

The Camino just outside Sarria

One of the many small creek crossings

One of the first bars outside Sarria. Notice it is packed with pilgrims!

View on the Camino

A steep part of the Camino

The Camino

Tricky place to get around with the Wheelie

An alternate Camino route coming into Portomarin that circumvents the steep steps that were nearly impossible to get by with the Wheelie

Portomarin, finally! Beautiful entry into the city

My home for the night, Hotel Villajardin

My room for the night, or two, or three, or?

The pictures can’t all be beautiful. Some people believe you can not experience a true Camino unless you suffer, but I could do fine without suffering! My blister was painful but has dried and is healing. Rain, cold, heat, hunger, and physical pain, etc., can all be part of what makes a Camino rewarding for someone in the end knowing what you have worked through to get there.

I will probably loose the toe nail on the tall guy. Hey, I’ll grow another. All my foot issues have been on my left foot because what is probably adjusting and learning how to walk normally and not limping with my new bionic knee.

Elevation charts