Goose Bay to Kaikoura (10.36 miles/16.98 kms)

Today was a short day and almost like a zero day, as I had time to relax early, and end it heavenly. Funny how a short day can also be a day that I write a long blog.

I wasn’t planning on going beyond Kaikoura today and it was only about 12 miles, so I didn’t hurry to get going. I woke at 6:30, later than normal, and packed up and headed out the door a little after 8:00. All I had left for breakfast was some peanut butter with chia seeds and some whole grain crackers. I figured I’d make Kaikoura by the time I was hungry.

As I went to the community kitchen to fill my water bottles I ran into Pakette and Tere, the Spanish couple I met last night in the kitchen. They offered me some coffee, and again, not really a coffee drinker, said yes. I got some more details of their adventure, and they on mine, and we could have talked for days about them. Meeting people like them gives me a special sense of adventure that we usually understand. It’s interesting too that we usually meet at obscure places like this that are not the big tourist spots.

Pakette and Tere live north of Barcelona and are around forty. Both are English teachers and translators. Tere speaks several other languages. They took a one year sabbatical to bike across different countries. The started by biking across Canada from the east to the west, and ending in Victoria, Canada. That’s where I ended my trek to Canada.

Then they crossed into the USA at Port Angeles, where I crossed over to Canada. Then they rode all the way down the coast to California and to the bottom of Baja, Mexico. Some of their favorite spots were in California, and it sounded like their favorite.

After Mexico they came to New Zealand to bike the country. The toured part of the South Island but didn’t not find the roads safe or bike friendly and decided to rent a car. They had a few days left before heading home because Pakette has to start back to work. Tere has several more months.

I was sad to leave them because I could have chatted with them for days. Even though we have different modes of transportation, there is a connection with our interests. I love meeting people like them. Funny, but again, like with the French couple that was touring the world, our good byes were sincere hugs and well wishes.

I started out after 9:00, but it really didn’t matter today as I was going to take my time and enjoy it. I got about one and a half miles down the road and came to a stoppage at a road construction site. Sorry sir, but we can’t let you walk through the construction zone for the next six kilometers or so (3.5 miles). I tried to plead my case that I could not take a ride or I’d be breaking my vow to walk all of New Zealand. I even cried! No, not really. Sorry sir, it’s just too dangerous. Wait there for me and I’ll come back and pick you up. Then I cried! No, I didn’t!

His name was Stewart, from Wellington, and he had been working on this project for about two years. The area, especially at Kaikoura, all the way to Christchurch, was hit by a large earthquake that destroyed the road into the area at both ends. Apparently the road was closed for months and months, and no one could get in or out of the Kaikoura area except by boat. Businesses and life in the area came to complete standstill. It devastated the area. Most of the construction I have encountered, and will further on, is still repair work from the quake.

Stewart came back and picked me up and we loaded the Wheelie into the back of his flatbed truck. Once he took me through the construction zone I could see why they wouldn’t let me through. There were two tunnels being worked on and the cement barriers were right on the edge of the roadway, with absolutely no shoulder. There were areas of only one lane with barriers on both sides making it impossible to pass more than one car at a time. It was bad.

Of course Stewart told me about his two kids from two different girlfriends, where he lived, where he’s work, etc. And, I actually really liked hearing a little about him. Funny, when he dropped me off, he gave me a hand shake like we where old friends. Must be the magic or spell of the Wheelie!

I started back up and the road was flat most of the way to Kaikoura, except for the hill just as you enter the town. The weather for the short walk was perfect as it was still cool and a little overcast. Traffic was fairly light, and I am sure mainly due to the construction.

Kaikoura is a little tourist town right on the coast. There are so many things to do and see that it’s a big draw for tourists. Things like helicopter and airplane whale watching, boat whale watching, diving with the dolphins, seal beaches, penguin sightseeing, and many more things. I’d love to come back and do some of those, but with the type of adventure I am doing I feel a little out of place with all the tour buses and RVs all around.

I stop in another Too 10 Holiday Park, Kaikoura, and got a cabin. Priciest cabin so far at $90 ($61 US), but that’s the rate for a tourist trap, I mean area. Besides, I checked in at 2:00, and it gave me time to shower and wash my clothes early for once. I walked another two miles round trip to the store though, and got fruit, veggies, drinks, and other staples for the days ahead with no stores or restaurants, or towns.

I also stopped and got dinner for the night, so I could hurry back here for the treat I had planned for myself. I booked a half hour in the hot tub here for 7:30, and I was like a little kid waiting for the summer pool to open. Luckily I saw the sign up sheet as I checked. It was so early not many times were filled.

The tub is a traditional redwood one that is completely fenced and locked, for my use only. Glad for that because I didn’t bring swimming trucks! Wow, if I could end every trekking day with a shower, good meal, and then, a hot tub, wow!

So, my day today was a lot like a zero day, especially since walking 10 miles on a cool day, and flat road, is like my walks along the beach at home. Great day today!

Tomorrow? No town in walking distance, so it might be a tent night. After today, it’s going to be tough! But, one day at a time.

Best wishes to all,

Ted