Vila Franca de Xira to Casa do Rio (25.77 miles/41.50 km)

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Today was a marathon day, just a tad (.23 miles) short of a full marathon. Not that I was in a race, but I found myself in a trekking rhythm probably because of having had a good night’s sleep and feeling rested. The trekking rhythm comes and goes and I take advantage as tomorrow I might find myself dragging.

I had breakfast with Doc at our hostel and we headed out the door around 7:30. We were going to walk together and lost each other while I was looking for an ATM. Not only did I not see him, but I never saw another pilgrim the whole day. I hope I see him again because it’s always nice to click with someone on the Camino. I met my German friend Paul on the Camino Plata years ago and still stay in touch with him.

I made it to Azambuja by noon, which is one of the designated stopping stops in some of the guide books. For me it was too early to stop, especially since I was in that rhythm, but I also wanted to get out of the pattern of starting and stopping at the same places as many other pilgrims that stick to the guide, so I decided to go further. The closest lodging, two apartment rooms, were twelve miles away in Valada, and both were booked. The only other option was a room in a private house about two and a half miles past Valada at Casa do Rio.

For most of the day the Camino jumped from a nice gravel road paralleling the railroad tracks, to dirt paths, sidewalks, wide asphalt roads, and the last four miles on a narrow unmarked road with absolutely no shoulder. I had heard some negative comments about the Camino running along very highways, and it is truly a concern, but because many of my treks were on highways, it seemed fairly normal.

I had to cross the railroad tracks four times, and twice the elevator going up to the pedestrian bridge was not working. It didn’t take long for two kind men to offer to help carry the Wheelie up three and four flights of stairs. I don’t know how a handicapped person would do it here?

The weather had been overcast and fairly cool in the morning, and that change after noon when I left Azambuja when the temperature was in the high eighties. The Camino out of town was on an asphalt road. After a few miles it moved onto a dirt road that parallels the Tagus River and through fifteen to twenty foot tall arundo (cane plant) that completely block any wind. Not only did the temperature increase but suddenly there were swarms of flies that were relentless in finding exposed skin. I am sure with the sweet smell of my sweaty body it was like ringing the dinner bell for the thousands of flies! I must have burned up more calories and used more energy swatting the flies than trekking. I am glad no one saw me because I was jumping and dancing around like a madman, and screaming, ok, and cursing, those obnoxious flies! It was torture and lasted a few miles that seemed like forever.

Once out of the arundo and onto flat farmland the flies dissipated a little. The fields here are planted with tomatoes as far as I could see, and figuring the farmer would not miss a few, I just had to eat a few fresh off of the vine.

The rest of the way to Valada was all on an unmarked asphalt road so narrow that two cars would have difficulty passing each other. Fortunately there was very little traffic, and mostly big trucks loaded with tomatoes. It was interesting that Valada is a small village, with very few people, and yet has a nice little beach resort because it’s on the river. I actually picked up the key, and dinner for tonight, at the local beach bar restaurant.

The house at Casa do Rio was another two miles further, and I didn’t get here until 6:00, and it turned out to be a great place. It is a four bedroom house, with a full kitchen, living room, dining area, and bath, and I am the only one here! Which room should I take? And, it was only €15 ($16.50)!

Tomorrow I will play it by ear as Santamer is the next town about twelve miles away, and the next lodging is another eighteen miles after that. For now I’ll enjoy this big house by myself and get another good night’s sleep without snorers.

Best wishes to all,

Ted

Please excuse the typos, spelling, grammar, etc., as I am typing this on my phone, and I am probably pretty tired.

If you would like to see the Alzheimer’s Association website and see our team page please go to:

act.alz.org/goto/tedstrek

Leaving Vila Franca

Both the Camino de Santiago and Fatima Caminos are on the same Way, the Fatima is designated with a blue arrow blue and the Camino Santiago is a yellow arrow.

The kind man that helped me carry the Wheelie up the stairs because the elevator was not working.

 

Going down the stairway because the elevator was not working

 

The pedestrian bridge over the railroad tracks

 

The Camino running along the railroad tracks

 

Looks nice, but it’s the settling ponds for the sewage treatment plant along the Camino

 

Camino going under an overpass with just enough headroom for me

 

 

Entering Azambuja

 

Walking through Azambuja. Note the tiny Camino directional arrow. Miss it and you are lost!

 

Notice these Camino directional arrows pointing you up the stairs of the pedestrian bridge over the railroad tracks.

 

Walking through the pedestrian bridge

 

Camino on the road out of Azambuja

 

The Camino through the Arundo fly infested hell hole!

 

Fresh tomato! Notice the purple Alzheimer’s Association bands, and take a look at out team site.

 

Finally, Casa do Rio house, which is built on the dike protecting the area from the river’s flooding.

 

The house

 

Pretty nice living room

 

Kitchen and dining area, all to myself

 

The bath

 

And, the bedroom I picked

 

The map of today’s trek

 

Today’s trek

 

Today’s trek