Cortica to Ansião (17.17 miles/27.70 km)

Another grueling day because of the heat, but a little cooler at only a high of 102 degrees (39.44c). Ha! However, I think that this being the third day of the extreme heat it seemed worse.

I had a good night’s sleep, and Lindsay and Ann were good roommates because they were very conscientious, which is not always the case in albergues. This albergue was not so restrictive with a lights out time, but we were all on the same page as far for lights out and lights on in the morning. Usually, if someone wants to get up early, for me it’s not pleasant, but that’s just part of staying in an alberque because not everyone is on the same schedule. Luckily we all were.

I had breakfast with Lindsay and Ann, and I left before them. As usual, the morning was beautiful and the weather was fairly cool. I almost missed the Camino arrow at the corner near the alberque as it is barely visible on a post. I continued on this street for about a quarter mile, and had picked some grapes off of the vines everywhere, when Lindsay and Ann caught up to me. We walked together for almost a mile when Lindsay noticed on her map program that we had missed the Camino turnoff almost one mile back! What a way to start the day, by making a two mile mistake. In retrospect, I am fortunate that they made the same mistake or I might have gone who knows how many more miles? But then again, this is Wrong Way Ted!

Back on the Camino, we walked through several little communities and then stopped at Alvaiázere, where we got something to drink because it was getting hot and we were facing another big climb. I started out by myself figuring they would catch up to me because pulling the Wheelie up a hill is similar to a big truck slowly going up a hill. The temperature by then was already in the 90s (30c).

It was another one of those climbs for me where I would stop wherever I saw a shady spot, where I’d stop for thirty seconds or so to cool down, and then start back up. Most of these climbs I would probably do without stopping if it were in cool weather.

Climbing the last stretch I was struggling when I passed a house where an older woman was washing something in her front yard outdoor sink. A friendly hello, and can I get some water to soak my cooling towel, and maybe even soak my head and dump the excess water all over my head? She was kind and told me to wait while she went inside and came out with a big bottle of ice cold water. Wow, did that energize me. Well, at least for the next few hundred feet.

I stopped for a break and Lindsay and Ann caught up to me and we ended up walking and talking together until the last three or four miles. Until then the Camino had moved from the usual dirt trail to the road, which was not bad because there was little to no traffic. We were all struggling with the heat, and as I mentioned, I think it was the cumulative effect of the heat after three days.

At this point outside of Ansião the Camino split in two, one way the new trail, and the other the old way on the road. The section before this had been fairly rocky and ruff, which made it harder for me with the Wheelie, so I decided to take the road. By then the temperature was 102 degrees (39c) and as soon as I started out I began to regret my choice as there was absolutely no shade and the road was a constant roller coaster. I did manage to find a few shady spots and drank water everything I stopped. About a half mile from Ansião the Camino crossed the road and I moved on the dirt path all the way into the town. I stopped at the first mercado I saw as I don’t think I could have gone on much further. I was craving something cold, anything, and I went in and all the drinks were non-refrigerated! I said I want a cold drink or I want my Mommy! I think the owner saw me crying and motioned me over to behind the counter and opened a door with cool drinks, mainly beer. I grabbed, literally, grabbed the two whatever cold drinks, I think orange, that were in front. I went across the street, in the shade and on a doorstep, and rolled those drinks under my armpits, inside of my elbows, back of my knees, back and side of my neck, and forehead, before I guzzled the first can. I repeated the same thing with the next can. Ahhhhhh!

I was sitting there for about fifteen to twenty minutes still trying to recover, and had figured that Lindsay and Ann had made the right decision to walk the path and were probably on their way when I saw them walking down the street towards me. I’ve got to say they looked beat! No smiles on their faces, and I almost didn’t recognize them because they always seemed so cheerful, but that’s what the heat does to you.

Apparently they had lots of ups and downs too, with sections of no shade, and they were also at wits end and said they could go no further. I took them across the street to my grocer friend and told him to give them the good stuff, the cold ones! We must have been a pretty sad looking group of pilgrims, sitting there looking beat. After their drinks and time to cool down Lindsay and Ann were feeling better like me.

I had booked a hotel within a block of where we stopped, the Hotel & Spa Ansiturismo, because I did not want to walk any further, and I wanted a private room with air conditioning! Lindsay and Ann ended up taking a cab to the next town about eleven miles away because they plan to stay a few days at several towns and weren’t sure they would have enough time before flying home.

I reserved the hotel as it was recommended and I wasn’t sure what I would get for €40. It turns out to be a brand new hotel that makes me feel a little opulent since it has Spa in its name, and that’s not really me, but for $44, including breakfast, it’s a steal compare to what you’d get at home.

After a wonderful cold shower, no hot water, and washing my clothes, I walked to a recommended pizza restaurant and had a giant medium size vegetable pizza. It was good, and what a treat! Interesting, while sitting there two young couples walked in and where speaking English, American recognizable English. Turns out they are from New Jersey, of Portugués ancestry, and were here on vacation visiting family. Born and raised in the States but still coming back to their heritage.

I had a nice, beautiful, cool, stroll back to the hotel. What a contrast to the heat of the day. I have the air set down to the sixties and will sleep cold tonight. Tomorrow the temperature is forecast to be cooler, and, the terrain is not as steep, so I am positive tomorrow will be a good day.

Best wishes to all,

Ted

Please excuse the typos, spelling, grammar, etc., as I am typing this on my phone, and I am probably pretty tired.

If you would like to see the Alzheimer’s Association website, see our team page, and donated, please go to:

act.alz.org/goto/tedstrek

Having breakfast with Lindsay and Ann

A beautiful old house in Alvaiázere. I thought it was the Munster’s old house

The Camino on a steep uphill section of road (photo doesn’t show the real steepness)

The temperature in the shade

Coming down the last part of the Camino into Ansião

The usual beautiful church in Ansião. At night it was even more beautiful

The church at night as I was walking back from dinner

The plaza at night as I walked through back from dinner

Hotel & Spa Ansiturismo

Pretty nice for €40

I think I used all their water for my cold shower!

My elevation for today. Note that steep climb in the middle!

My trek today

My trek today

Oh yeah, my pizza today!