Today we trekked about 21.6 miles to the village of Palas De Rei. 
Our day started out nice as the view from our room window told us it would be the first clear day in four days. As it turned out it was clear and warm all day.
Because our albergue was off the main stopping and starting points there were few pilgrims on the Camino when we started. We knew it wouldn’t last as the pilgrims that started early in the bigger towns might be catching up to us or we would catch them.
The surface of the Camino was still pretty tough and very muddy in many places due to the rain. Just before we got to the village of Portomarin the Camino was posted as splitting in two directions and both coming together just before a bridge across a lake into Portomarin. My guide book didn’t show any difference so we continued straight. That turned out to be a wrong choice as it narrowed and then dropped straight down about 2-3′. I figured it wouldn’t get any worse, but it did. It then dropped 4′, 5′ and 6′, with deep ruts and sharp turns. By then I was stuck with the Wheelie I couldn’t really go back. I had to unhook the Wheelie and turned it around so I could lower it down the steep drops. Then it narrowed so much that the Wheelie would not fit through and Monica and I had to lift it through several tight sections. That was the toughest section of the Camino I’ve had to go through.
Crossing the bridge into Portomarin was beautiful and it look like a picture postcard scene. By then we had begun to pick up more pilgrims and the Camino began to take on a bit of a different look and feel with so many people. It was still obvious who were the Day Walkers, but now too who were the 4-5 Day Walkers with their clean clothes, light packs, and tennis shoes. Interesting because there was still so much mud and rough sections of the Camino that tennis shoes were definitely not the best choice for shoes.
We started looking for lodging late in the evening and again found many of the albergues and hotels full. Many of the 4-5 day walkers only walk 10-14 miles each day and have their reservations made ahead of time and therefore fill much of the lodging.
By late afternoon we were in a long stretch with no lodging and we knew then that we had to go to Palas de Rei, one of the big stopping and starting points. We didn’t get to Palas de Rei until close to six, our latest day. 
The town was full of albergues, and obviously pilgrims too! Quite a change from the sleepy little villages we had stayed in until the last few days. There was an albergue or hotel on every corner and restaurants too. We were just too tired to look around and found a newer and fairly large albergue that had a private room and took it. It didn’t have the most pleasant atmosphere but it was clean.
We went to what ended up being a restaurant that the locals go to and watched as they served lots of the local delicacy, octopus. It is boiled in a big pot and they cut off one of the arms and cut them into little pieces, season them with olive oil, salt, and dry peppers. We watched them being prepared and finally gave in and ordered some after the owners told us how delicious it was. They were right, it’s was excellent.
Tomorrow we will head out and decide whether to trek to Santiago in the next day or two. The availability of the lodging may have an influence on our decision. 
Best wishes,

Ted

The view from our room in the morning

A cemetery along the Camino with a memorial 

You have a choice of Camino shells

The Camino early in the morning

The Camino in a quiet stretch

Admiring the lake view before realizing the drop zone ahead

Too late to turn around

Man!

Wow, this stinks!

Approaching Portomarin 

Across the bridge 

Steps to Portomarin 

Across the other side of Portomarin 

Sheep and cattle have the right of way on the Camino 

Monica was hiding behind the building away from the cows

The Camino rutted and muddy

Our albergue 

The owner preparing the octupus

Delicious  

Art on the Camino