CVdlP, Day 6, Saturday, September 24, 2016

Almaden de la Plata to El Real de la Jara, 10.3 miles

Even though I got to bed later than I wanted, it was well worth it because I had the chance to sit and chat with a local as he was interacted with the other locals, and even though most of my responses to his introductions to others were limited to ola and si’.

As usual, I was the last one to leave this morning as I wanted to move around a little to see how I was feeling. I wasn’t hungry and forced myself to eat two small yogurts and a granola bar. I made sure I had plenty of water, and for that extra boost of energy, a big bottle of orange juice and ice tea.

I said my good bye to Daniella, who walked me to the street and gave me a hug. She was sorry but Luis was asleep and had wanted him to send me off with a smile.

I turned up the Camino street and it immediately started uphill. Not bad, but immediately enough to remind me that I wasn’t 100%.

The Camino from here to Jara is all dirt and gravel and traverses between ranches and the National Park (Nature Park).
Several people had mentioned that it is a short easy walk, only 16.6 kilometers (10.3 miles). I have learned from the past that can not always go by what people tell you because sometimes they have never walked it. The elevation map does show it as rolling hills with some short steep climbs.

Within the first few miles I realized that I was definitely not close to being 100%. I felt myself struggling on the inclines even though they were short. As usually, the temperature hit 89 degrees by noon and then topped off at 95 later.

The scenery reminds me so much of Southern California with the dry rolling hillsides and oak trees.

The first section of the Camino was ranch land as there ate gates across the road that had to open to continue. There were at least ten to twelve gates.

The best pork in Spain comes from this area and there are free range pigs roaming everywhere. Not just a few, but hundreds, like you would see cattle or sheep. One of their favorite foods are the acorns from the oak trees. There are many large ponds and you could see the pigs floating in the water like hippos, and of course, rolling in the mud. It’s a strange feeling having so many pigs run away from and then run back to you to see if you have something to eat. A few followed closely to the back of the Wheelie and I was a little worried that they would bite at it.

Some of the uphills were extremely steep and I had to forcefully use the trekking poles to keep my uphill momentum. However, I found myself stopping every fifty feet or so to rest. I definitely did not feel my normal rhythm. As a matter of fact, I have yet to feel it on this Camino.

I was feeling nauseous to the point I was a little concerned I would make it. I was over half way there when I ran into three women that were taking a break. They were from England, Australia, and the U.S.A. The English lady asked if I was Ted after she saw the Wheelie. Funny, but she had posted a comment on the Camino website regarding the Plata and I had replied. I knew she was on the plata and I had been ahead of her.

The story about my rescue has also made it on the Camino grapevine. She offered me some electrolyte tablets and Pepto-Bismol. At this point I’d try anything that would work and the Pepto-Bismol settled my stomach enough that I was able to continue.

When I arrived at El Real de la Jara I found a private albergue just inside the city. It was newer looking and very clean. I was a little worried when the host told me the private rooms were full and I’d have to take the one upstairs. As it turns out I got a bed in a four bed room but I was the only one in the room.

I managed to do my daily chore of washing the clothes I had worn, but felt too nauseous to go anywhere. I just laid in bed until late at night hoping to feel better.

Some of the other pilgrims went to a bar and got me a soda, which I wanted to settle my stomach. Later they asked me if I wanted something to eat from the store or restaurant. I didn’t think I could eat anything and said no. They said they were going to cook there and I could share it with them. I should have excepted their offer but felt sheepish eating the food and not contributing with the help.

Around 7:30 I felt a little hungry and forced myself out of bed and headed out into the street looking for a place to eat. Jara is an interesting town because it’s hard to distinguish where you are or where the business center is because the streets are basically lined with attached two and three story buildings as far as you can see down the streets. The sidewalks are very narrow and the streets are cobble.

There is no host at the albergue at night and I wasn’t able to ask which direction I needed to go. I just started walking on the biggest streets that I could find, but the streets were strangely empty. I ran into a few people who pointed me down the streets with no signs or distinguishing markers. After about a quarter of a mile I came to the church plaza and saw the light of the restaurant. There was a group of eight pilgrims, three of the ladies I had met today, my old Italian roommate, and a few others I had casually spoken to the last few days.

By luck I found the best restaurant in town. Everyone was done and having desert, and I see why because the church service was just getting over and the restaurant became packed. Apparently that’s where all the town’s people had gone.

The first thing on the menu for me was a big bowl of hot vegetable soup. That hit the spot and settled my stomach! I could have that every night! After that I was able to eat their home made desert that was great.

Everyone left fairly soon and I made the mistake of staying and talking to a couple from Belgian until after ten. I had decided that I was going to stay another night since I had such a challenging day and another day of rest might help.

Luckily this albergue doesn’t lock the doors at ten, as I didn’t get in until 10:30, but it had felt good to get out of bed.

It’s late at night and at this point it will be too late for me to get a good long night’s sleep, so I have resigned myself to staying another night. Unfortunately, even though this albergue is nice, it is a little sterile and doesn’t have the same feeling as the cozy albergue I stayed at the last two nights. But that’s the Camino experience.

Best wishes,

Ted

Leaving Almaden