Puerto de Bejar to Fuenterroble de Salvatierra (19.22 miles)

Today was challenging day as I had a long step climb most of the day to end. The only saving grace was that the temperature didn’t get over 91 degrees and there was a slight breeze in the afternoon.

I started my day by having breakfast waiting for me when I went into the dining area. Joaquin heard me and came running out and served me as though I was in a restaurant. Spanish breakfasts are generally toast and jam, some type of sweet cake or pastry, and of course coffee. My favorite is a tortilla de plata (egg and potato casserole) but it is not as common in Southern Spain, so I haven’t seen it much. I am craving my normal healthy breakfast but it’s the Camino and Spain, so I take what I can. 

The Camino started right out the front door of the albergue. It was 56 degrees and a little cold, and it is going to get colder in the mornings the coming week. I started at eight and walked the stretch on the highway that Paul and I had already walked. Just past where I had turned off yesterday looking for Puerto de Bejar, the Camino turned off the road and continued on a wide dirt road. Later in traversed from a wide dirt road, to a narrow foot path, and at times on asphalt roads.

The scenery was very different and was beautiful because the hills and fields were green and the forest was thick with tall chestnut and ash trees. 

It started out fairly level and then started steeply downhill for almost two miles. As I have mentioned before, even though I don’t love uphills, the downhills are much harder on the feet, knees, legs, and hips. 

I know that the more of a down hill, the more of an uphill is coming. The next fifteen miles or so were all uphill until the last mile or so into Salvatierra. It was uphill through both little towns of Valverde de Valdelacasa and Valdelacada (don’t you love all those Spanish names). Luckily for me both had little bars where I stopped and had a cold drink.

Those bars, even in the little towns, always have a group of men sitting around having a beer, no matter what time of day. Usually they are older. 

They are called bars and almost always have food. Even the regular restaurants are called bars. 

In Valdelacasa there was an interesting friendly argument going on between three old guys. I got my drink and went outside and laughed when I saw the bartender come out and shake her head laughing. Apparently it even got too loud for her and she went out. Funny, to see the Spanish, just like the Italians, using their hands a hundred miles an hour as a visual aid. 

Past Valdelacasa the scenery went back to the oak trees and dry brown grass. The path was very rough and rocky and it was a lot of work getting the Wheelie up the step rocky sections. After Valdelacasa the Camino followed an one lane asphalt road and I decided to walk on it. From there to Salvatierra I only saw two or three cars. 

When I first walked into Salvatierra I saw a sign on a house advertising rooms for pilgrims. I knew of only one albergue in town and didn’t think there were any hotels. The owner walked me completely through town to the other side of town where she had a nice albergue house with three bedrooms. It has a shared bath and living room and kitchen and looked very nice. The supply and demand raised the price with breakfast to 30€. The only other albergue was a parochial albergue, which would have been my second choice if this one was full.

I have to add that the smells of the Camino here have not always been pleasant, but here in Salvatierra they are bad! Apparently it must be the time of year the locals fertilize the fields and the smell outside of town was almost unbearably. I figured with a good wind, and in town, it would dissipate. Not! I am in my room and had to open the ceiling skylight because it’s warm and I almost passed out. Maybe I’ll sleep with it closed tonight?

When I first got here I did my usual things in order, shower, wash my clothes, and find the mercado and buy my food for tomorrow. 

Diner was at the local bar and was very good, however, I had to overcome the smell that still lingered inside. The owner brought out a big plate of grapes as an extra for the pilgrims, maybe as a distraction for the smell? 

Tomorrow will be an interesting day because it’s the steepest climb on the Plata. Everyone seems to be gearing towards a tough climb to San Pedro de Rozados, the next town eighteen miles away, with no other towns in between. The next city after that is Salamanca, one of the bigger towns on the Plata, and the place where many people will stop. It also marks the more than halfway spot to Santiago on the Camino Via de la Plata.

Best wishes,

Ted

Starting at sunrise

The Camino in the morning

Nice forest area

Camino view

Camino view

Rough day at times

Chart showing the grade today

Valdelacasa 

Statue of pilgrim on the Camino 

My albergue for the night

My room

My room. 

My bath. Not bad.