CVdlP, Day 22, October 10, 2016

Calzada de Valdunciel to Villanueva de Campean (20.86 miles)

Today I was a little out of sorts because I didn’t have any breakfast food or food for a snack until I got to the first town El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino, about 14 miles away. The only store in town was closed on Sunday and the restaurants didn’t open until 8:30-9:00 AM. I had a little bit of hard cheese and I had them wrap up the white French bread I had with diner and I hoped that would sustain me. I did buy some water bottles from the bar.

I wanted to leave right at eight but they had my Wheelie locked in a storage shed and no one got there until 8:15.

It starts to get light enough to walk at eight but the sun doesn’t rise until 8:30. That’s been the big difference in my walking time as I would prefer earlier starts and some longer stops during the day but the daylight walking time is so limited.

What a change in the temperature in the last two days. It’s been so hot the whole time and now it is cold. This morning it was 46 degrees and I was a bit chilly. The temperature never got over 69 degrees. I wore my long sleeve t-shirt under my regular shirt and my light wool gloves in the morning. Tomorrow I might use my wool pullover as I was still cold this morning. Better temperature to walk in though.

The Camino trail started right in town and was a fairly wide dirt road. The way things were going I walked on the asphalt road for part of the morning so I could make better time if I ran out of energy. The terrain was pretty flat and the scenery was mainly harvested dry wheat.

I found myself really dragging all morning long, and I know it was because I had so little to eat. I generally take fruit and other high energy snacks and eat them all day long as I know I am burning lots of calories.

I was a little concerned when I got to El Cubo because it was after noon and hoped the store, if they had one, would be open. Most in Spain are closed from noon to four or five. I was directed by a man to the super mercado that was on a little residential side street. Their super mercado was smaller than most small liquor stores and have a very limited selection. Beggars can’t be choosers and I tried to pick the healthiest things I could find.

I loaded up on yogurt, almonds, apple, orange, and some apple pastries. I sat in the square and felt ravenous. It’s amazing how hungry you get after days of walking as your metabolism is in high gear.

After eating I felt much better and my energy level went up. I had moved onto the Camino right from town. It was mostly flat, with some smaller uphill climbs. The surface wasn’t too bad, except in some stretches where it was very soft and sandy.

It’s so typical when you get to the top of a hill and see the city below and think you are almost there. I came over the ridge and had a beautiful view of Villanueva de Campean below. I figured I’d be there in ten minutes, but it took me over a hour.

The town is really small and I am surprised there were two albergues listed here. The first was a private one that had private rooms. I went inside and the place was very dark and none of the rooms had windows. It didn’t look very clean. Mikio, the Japanese man was there, along with two other people.

I tried to find the other alberque and knocked on a door that I thought was it. The owner was a very nice lady and took me to it. It is a municipal alberque that appeared very clean. It has ten beds, but no one was there, including a host. I picked a bed, took a shower, and did my laundry before the host came to get my 6€ ($6.70). I am still the only one here and enjoying it. Wow!

There is only one bar (restaurant) in town and it didn’t open until 8:30. I ended up eating with Mikio again. I met two Danish pilgrims, and a nice German couple that were doing the Camino by foot and car.

I ordered an egg sandwich for breakfast as the restaurant is not open until nine and there is no mercado in the town.

Tomorrow the last big town, Zamora, is only 13 miles away. Again, I’ll have to decide to either stay there and have a short day, or go to the next town which is another ten miles.

Zamora is the town where you can either go straight north and connect with the Camino Francis (the one I just did), or turn west and take one of two alternate Camino to Santiago. I will take one of the other two.

I’ll see how the day goes before I decide what I’ll do tomorrow.

Best wishes,

Ted

Morning on the Camino

Getting ready for the day. Wrap my hot spots on my feet to prevent blisters. Wool socks, of course. And tight support socks to keep those arches feeling good. Helps for plantar fasciitis.