Segovia to Sant Maria la Real de Nieve (21.58 miles / 34.75 kms)

I am trying to get better at starting early and left before eight this morning hoping to make it a short day of trekking. It’s always nice to get somewhere early so you can settle in, do your laundry (yes, every day), find a place to eat, and maybe get food and drinks that you might need the next day.

It was in the low forties but it was suppose to warm up to the sixties as it has not been much over fifty the last few days. Walking in the cold is preferable to walking in warm weather, but even in the cold you end up getting sweaty because you dress warmer.

The hotel is right on the Camino and a block from the cathedral square where the Camino turns down a very narrow alley between two restaurants. Its almost unnoticeable and fortunately I check it out the day before. As I mentioned, for me it’s easier to get lost in a city than out in the country.

Looking back as I was walking down the steep and narrow street I was in awe with the old castle and fortress walls visible at the top of hill that is the main part of old Segovia. As most cities in Spain it was built on a hill for defensive reasons.

I was in awe too with the old cobble stone streets and stone retaining walls that are hundreds of years old and still used. Segovia’s streets are the same size as they were hundreds of years ago and that’s probably why there was a line of traffic a hundred cars long on the single lane road headed into Segovia for the morning rush.

The Camino is on this busy road into town and then about a mile out it turns onto a wide, smooth, farm road. I love this type of road and could walk this type of road all the way to Santiago but I know it won’t last.

I came to the little village of Los Huertos and found the only bar there open. I love the feeling in these small villages so much more that the big cities, and the people there are usually much friendlier too. Special breakfast made to order, no chorizo, the offer to take a photo, and a Buen Camino. Not what your usually find readily in the big city.

Back on the Camino and enjoying the gentle rolling hills and green fields, mostly wheat and barley. I imagine in a month it will be brown and hot, but now it’s beautiful. I don’t think I would enjoy it as much if it were brown and hot.

The Camino dropped down into a little valley that followed a small river and then moved onto an old abandon rail line. That was a great surface to pull the Wheelie on and it was flat for two or three miles. The entire area for the next few miles was forested with what appeared to be planted poplar trees.

The Camino went over a bridge and on the other side of the creek and changed to a beautiful meadow area. After about a half mile it entered into a thick pine tree forest. It is an interesting forest because most of the trees are being harvesting for the pine sap, like maple trees are for their maple sugars. Almost all of the trees had little funnels cut into the bark and cups to catch the sap.

The Camino went through the forest for about a mile and then suddenly came out into open farm fields. There were on real signs indicating where the Camino was going through the fields and it just looked like it was following a tractor track plowed through the fields. I wasn’t sure if I was going the right way. I went through about mile of the plowed fields before I first saw an arrow on a rock overgrown with weeds.

The Camino then moved back onto the wide road just before the little village of Ane. There is an alberque there, the one noted in bad shape, and I had gone nearly fifteen miles and I was pretty tired and decided I would stay there. The village was a little eerie because it seemed deserted. I saw a man and asked about the alberque and he told me to get the key at the bar. I walked all around and couldn’t find a bar. Funny too, but the guide states there is no bar there. I saw another man and asked about the bar and alberque and he told me the bar owner went to Segovia.

I didn’t want to risk waiting for hours and then not getting a place to sleep and decided to walk the seven miles to Santa Maria la Real de Nieva. The Camino out of Ane was a steep downhill, and as always, what goes down must go up, and the next three miles or so were uphill.

I got into Maria la Real de Nieva around six and my total for the day was 21.58 miles and not what I wanted to do. I have to say my knee was a little stiff during that last section but not any real pain. I had only gone fourteen miles a few times before I left for this trip and had not had the time to slowly increase my distance. My first day out of Tres Contos was about seventeen and this today was a big jump. I really haven’t walked since ending the Camino de la Plata, and that was eighteen months ago. My feet are still not conditioned and were a bit sore and I even got a blister on my right big toe,  even though I always wrap my toes before I walk. I guess I still have tender feet.

I found the alberque and as usual you either call someone, or it’s at a bar. The caretaker, a jolly man who spoke English, opened it and gave me a key. It was €5 for the night. It has one large room with three bunk beds, one bath, and a kitchen area.

I just took a shower and was ready to enjoy the alberque by myself when two more pilgrims from the USA showed up around eight. They are from Charleston, Alan and Kim, both are fifty, and just dropped their daughter off in Sevilla for an semester of Spanish aboard.

Funny, but when I opened the door the first thing Kim said was, “are you Ted?” As long in distance as the Caminos are there is a grapevine along most of them. Whether it’s from people on the Camino, blogs, or Camino websites. Alan and Kim had stayed at Ray and Rosa’s and then also heard about me from a blog before I even started. She knew I was pulling the Wheelie and had seen my tracks and figured it was me.

I was to tired to go out for dinner and ended up eating some of the it picked up earlier. As usual, and as pilgrims do, I chatted with Alan and Karen.

As all little villages like this it has a long history, but unfortunately you would never make it to Santiago if you made it a point to see all the sights. I did have a quick tour of the monastery in town. It’s hundreds of years old and that along with the church, is the center and pride of the small village.

Tomorrow I will make it a short day as I plan to stop at the village of Coca, which is about thirteen miles from here. It is level going there and the weather should be warm.

As always, please excuse the typos, grammar, and spelling, as I am to tired to review this.

Best wishes,

Ted

Leaving Segovia

Camino through the gate.

Looking back at Segovia.

Ten sided church.

Morning commuter traffic going into Segovia.

The start of the Camino out of Segovia.

Coming into Zamarramala in the distance.

Zamarramala.

Stopping for cafe con leche.

Back on the Camino.

Shepherd on the Camino.

Ermita de Nuestra Senora. An old heavily buttressed dwelling open to the public and pilgrims to rest from the sun.

The Camino on an old abandon rail road track.

Look back on the Camino as it cross the creek to the pine forest.

The pine forest where the trees are taped for their sap.

Tree with the funnel cut into the tree and the sap drips into the cup.

Is this the Camino? Yes it is, but who would know!

Finally an indication that it is the Camino, but you have to look for it.

Approaching Ane.

Ane looks deserted. Couldn’t find the albergue!

On to Santa Maria la Real de Nieva

Finally in Santa Maria.

The monastery.

The albergue.

The albergue.