Foncebedon to Molinaseca (14.28 miles / 22.99 kms)

 

Today was a good day and turned out a little longer than I excepted because long steep downhill.

 

I had made a reservation at the Hostal Casa San Nicolas in Molinseca because it’s a small village and I didn’t want to take a chance of not finding a room. I had thought of going further to the next larger town, Ponferrada, which is another five miles. In retrospect I would have gone further as I got to Molinaseca at 2:30.

 

I left shortly after eight and morning started out cold, fifty degrees, and foggy. It stayed foggy until about eleven and only cleared a bit because the drop in elevation below the low clouds.

 

The Camino out of Foncebedon continues to climb for another few hundred feet in elevation and then rolls up and down for the next four miles. After that it starts a steep decline all the way to Molinaseca. It runs directly next to a small country road (LE 142), and doesn’t move away from it until after the small village of Acebo.

 

About a mile out of Foncebadon I arrived at Cruz de Ferro, which is a large cross erected on a large and high pile of small stones and rocks placed there by pilgrims from all over the world. People of religion and non-religion find it a spiritual place and leave various personal items on the small hill that’s there now. There are stones with names of people, sayings, religious statements, proverbs, toys, trinkets, notes, and hundreds, if not thousands of different personal items, most with strong personal meanings from the person that have left them there. Many items are left there in honer of loved ones that have passed away.

 

When I was there almost two years ago, I had just lost one of my old long time friends, Robert (Bob) Glackin. I had been thinking of him all along the Camino and thinking back to when I met and started hanging out with him in my sophomore year in high school, 1965. Then when I first moved out of my parent’s home Bob, and my other friend Nick, were my first room mates. On the Camino my mind wandered back to all those years ago and I still picture us as young kids with the whole world, and life, still in front of us. Those fifty plus years had flown by so fast and here I was wishing Bob was still here, and with me on the Camino. When my daughter Monica and I got to Cruz de Ferro two years ago I stopped and wrote a note to Bob telling him how I missed him and wished he was here with me. I then placed it under a rock on the hill and walked away with moist eyes.

 

Since Bob passed away I have stayed in touch with his daughter and son, Sheree and Josh. I am not related to them by blood but they still call me Uncle Ted, and that is something I have always treasured because it always made me feel special. When I planned this Camino I asked both Sheree and Josh if I could take some of Bob’s ashes with me and spread them in a special place. Both have honored me by allowing me to take his ashes, their father, my friend Bob, with me and place them in a very special place on the Camino. I wanted that place to feel like the right place, and I think the Cruz de Ferro was the place because it is where thousands upon thousands of people come every year to celebrate, worship, praise, cry, pray, cherish, honor, something that is special to them. This place is not only special now, but has been special for hundreds and hundreds of years. It was an emotional moment for me and something I’ll always remember. Thank you Sheree and Josh!

 

Back on the Camino, and after Acebo, I moved onto the highway because that stretch of the Camino is very rocky, and with many slabs of shale in a wet creek area. I went through there two years ago and remember having a difficult time.

 

The entire descent to Molinaseca is very steep and I found myself slowly going downhill and using my trekking poles most of the way. As with most people, including me with my new knee, downhills are usually the hardest on your knees and joints. I saw many others with ankle, knee, and leg braces walking this stretch gingerly too.

 

Once in Molinaseca the Camino crosses over a beautiful stone bridge into the city center, and where my hostal is located. The view coming into Molinaseca almost looks like a little village in the Alps.

My room is very nice and it has a little balcony over looking the street to people watch. It’s a reasonable and typically priced room for €35. If I had not taken a zero day in Astorga this would definitely be a place I would consider. There are many restaurants within sight so tonight I will wander around and find a good place to eat.

 

Today was a good day and the moment at Cruz de Ferro in itself has made this Camino special for me.

 

I have not decided how far I will go tomorrow and might play it by ear.

 

Best wishes,

Ted

 

As always, please excuse the typos, grammar, and spelling, etc., because I am writing this on my phone and don’t always review my blog. And, even if I don’t review it, it’s s good a good excuse for my mistakes!

 

Looking out the window of my hostal at the cold foggy morning awaiting me

I obviously am one of the last to leave as the Day Walkers have already left their luggage to be transported to their next stop. I wonder if I could throw some of my stuff in there? I am just jealous!

Leaving Foncebedon and heading on the Camino

Arriving at Cruz de Ferro

Spreading Bob’s ashes

Thinking of you Bob

Moss covered trees along the Camino

Walking through Acebo

The Camino on the road descending to Molinaseca

An old cemetery and chapel alng the road

Entering Molinaseca

Crossing into Molinaseca

Molinaseca

My home for the night, Hostal Casa San Nicolas

View from my balcony

Hanging my clothes to dry on the balcony

View from my balcony

My room

Look at that descent