Camino Portuguese, Day 13, Friday, September 6, 2019

Coimbra to Anadia (19.76 miles/31.82 km)

Today was a totally different day than yesterday, mainly because of the increase in my energy level. Yesterday, I struggled going twelve miles, and today, I had energy, found a good rhythm trekking, and went almost twenty miles. I felt I could have gone four or six more, but I didn’t really have that choice. I ended up in Anadia because the next place with lodging would have been another twelve miles, and that was just too far.

I started at 7:00 and was a little concerned because of how I felt yesterday. I had a great night’s sleep and I think that’s what generally determines my energy level for the day. I never woke to the sound of the sirens from the fire station next door even though I heard them before I went to sleep.

Heading out this morning there was a lot of commute traffic and I ran into a road block trying to get back on the Camino. The Camino was on a road under construction and was closed and fenced off, with no detour signs. Past that point the Camino had moved to the other side of railroad tracks but there was no way to get to it. I found one there street going under the tracks, but the traffic was very heavy and there was absolutely no shoulder. I used the new Camino app and was able find a crossing at the train station.

After I got back on the Camino it traveled on a very quiet country road for several miles with little traffic. The road was pleasant and fairly flat for about four miles, and then started up a steep incline for about the next four miles. From there to the end at Anadia it was a roller coaster of ups and downs.

The Camino traveled through some beautiful sections of pine and eucalyptus forests, much of it so flat that I would have been a dream if it were like this all the way to Santiago. Other than the forests it also traveled through larger towns, small villages, and residential areas, a wide variety of scenery.

I passed through Mealhada and Sernadelo, which were the noted stops in the guide books, but it was only fifteen miles from Coimbra, and I had reached it by 12:30, too early to stop. I decided to go another five miles to Anadia, knowing if I didn’t stop there I would have to go another ten miles to Augeda.

I made a reservation at the Hotel Cabecinho Anadia just to be on the safe side since it is the only lodging in Anadia, but I wasn’t sure what type of place it was. I got there about 3:00 and was a little surprised by how nice and modern it was, and for a pilgrim rate of €45 ($49). It almost seemed a little opulent compared to the albergues where I have been staying for €8 ($8.88) to €12 ($13.33). Yet overall it’s relatively cheap compared to the US.

The morning weather the last two days has been fairly good as the temperature have been cool and it has been very windy. Today it was breezy all morning, which kept the temperature down. Today by noon the wind had stop and the temperature started going up, and by the time I got to Anadia at 3:00 it was 96 degrees (36c).

To my surprise, there is a pool here, and after I checked in I took my socks off and went straight into the pool with all my clothes on. Wow, did that feel good!

I walked to a nice little restaurant, Restaurante Quatro Estacoe, and had dinner. It is Friday night and the place was packed as it’s one of the most popular here. The menu was extensive and no one really spoke English, so I ordered a vegetable pizza and soup to make it easy. It was and excellent meal

and just what I needed after a long day.

Today turned out to be a good day, from having my energy back, finding a good trekking rhythm, having good scenery, and then having to stop at a place that turned out to be better than I could have expected, and even with a pool. Hopefully I’ll have another good night’s sleep and have another good day tomorrow.

Best wishes to all,

Ted

Please excuse the typos, spelling, grammar, etc., as I am typing this on my phone, and I am probably pretty tired.

If you would like to see the Alzheimer’s Association website, see our team page, and donated, please go to:

act.alz.org/goto/tedstrek

Leaving Coimbra in the morning

Heavy morning commute traffic

The city commuter train. The Camino is on the other side of the track, and there was no easy way to get there.

The quiet country road out of Coimbra

Entering the forest

One of several small villages I walked through, some barely noted on the map

Olive trees are planted everywhere, and they also seem to grow wild

The Camino is constantly changing terrain and surfaces

A little narrow and tough

Steep

Through the town of Mealhada

Beautiful tile walls at a fountain in Mealhada

The Camino on a nice path

Bad example of what a pilgrim should and should not use. Use a hat, especially if it is this hot! Don’t wear tank tops, cover up in this heat! You don’t need a giant sleeping bag, especially one flopping around, in this heat. I hope this pilgrim from Brazil doesn’t become friends with me or I’d be embarrassed if he saw this.

Walking through another village

They may be wine grapes, but fresh picked they are sweet and full of sugar energy

Dark ones are good too!

The temperature was 96 degrees just before 3:00 pm. Cooler than it has been the last few days

Anadia

Looks a little too fancy for a Camino, but at these prices (€45), what the heck! Especially since it’s the only lodging in town or the next ten miles.

The view of the police station from my room

Not real fancy, but again, room for three

Bath, but don’t really need the tub with a pool here

Clothes and all, I couldn’t wait! Dreaming about this for at least four or five days!

Ahhhhhh!

The elevation gain for the day. Not a race, or in a hurry, but trekked about 22 minutes a mile, which is unusually for for me in hilly terrain

My trek today

My trek today

My trek today

3 thoughts on “Camino Portuguese, Day 13, Friday, September 6, 2019

  1. Lisa johnson's avatar Lisa johnson

    Hi Ted!
    Lisa here. Loved reading your blog tonight, we are right behind you. We have really enjoyed our rest day in Coimbra-really needed it.
    Ready to trek tomorrow again.
    I’m writing to ask about the place you recommended in Santiago. Let me know the name and we will check it out.
    The pool looks inviting on such a hot day!!
    Happy trails and thanks!!
    Bom Camino
    Lisa

    Like

    1. tafstek's avatar tafstek

      The Hotel Bonaval is the great hotel in Santiago. It’s close to the cathedral, and if you get the right room, you can see it from your room. Bom Caminho!

      Like

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