Albergaria a Velha to Sao João da Madeira (18.54 miles/29.85 km)

I woke up at 5:00 am, much earlier than usual, and without an alarm. I think it might be because of the strong smell of smoke triggered something in me. I had closed the window when I went to sleep and opened it in the middle of the night because it got hot. As I had mentioned, that sickly smell of smoked was in the air and permeated everything for months at our house and it’s not a pleasant scent or memory.

I was out the door at 7:00, after having breakfast in my room. I am trying to start a little earlier but only if I get to sleep earlier, and that never seems to happen. Writing my blog takes time at night, but I never miss my morning and evening TM meditation, and of course prayer, and that takes time.

Today would not be a good day for someone with respiratory issues because there was a thick layer of smoke in the sky in all directions. It would have affected me when I had my respiratory infection back in Santamer. It did have me a little concerned in the morning, but I didn’t see the thick plume like yesterday or even hear any sirens.

Most of the day was uneventful. Much of the Camino today was through residential neighborhoods as it is getting closer to populated bigger cities.

The temperature was warm, but only got to about 90 degrees (32c) after 1:00. I am still drinking 3.5 to 4.5 liters of fluids and I still find myself wanting more.

Even though the Camino traveled through residential areas, the terrain was still very steep in many places. There were several short uphill climbs that I would estimate at about a 15% grade, and they were slow going, and grueling. Along with those steep uphills, there were also the very steep downhills. Some people don’t realize that downhills cause a lot of injuries and I see them flying down those hills. For me, I am very cautious because of my knee replacement. The Wheelie tends to push me and I usually go very slow and use both trekking poles.

Late morning I was moving along at what I thought was a fairly good pace when I noticed someone coming up behind me at an even faster pace. It was a young (26) Italian woman, Fredrecka (sp?), who had also started in Lisbon. I walked with her a short distance but couldn’t keep up with her on a steep uphill climb. I felt like the tortoise and the hare story, me just plugging along slow and steady, and her speeding like a rabbit. Funny, but I saw her later at a cafe and sat down and had a nice talk with her. She had lots blisters, and even though she was fast, she stopped every few hours and rests a long time. And the Camino is definitely not a race, as everyone goes at their own pace.

I was hoping to make it past Sao João da Madeira today so I could be close enough to Porto to get there in one day tomorrow, but I ran out of energy and decided to stay here.

It’s a big city so there were several choices for lodging and I ended up at the AS Sao João Da Madeira. I booked the room online, and again, I was surprised by how nice it was for €29 ($33). It over looks the Central Plaza, and I am on the 7th floor with a great view of the city.

It turned out to be a coincidence that Lindsay and Ann, the two Americans, are staying at a hotel directly across the Plaza. We ended up going out to dinner together, and I enjoyed talking with them. They were good company and fun. It was fun to trade stories about our Camino experiences and that’s what is great about seeing the same people at different times on a Camino. We ended up going to a great Asian restaurant, with all you can eat Chinese, Japanese, Mongolian BBQ, fresh fruit, and deserts, etc., etc., etc. There was such a huge variety I couldn’t list it all, and it was good, and for only €12 ($12.10).

My German friend, Paul, who I met three years ago on the Camino Via de la Plata, and have stayed in contact with all these years, flew in to Lisbon today and is joining me on the Camino tomorrow. It will be fun, and interesting, because I am trying to start earlier and he starts late, but that’s the beauty of the Camino, and that is that everyone does it their own way and pace. I also told him that albergues will be my last choice, especially since there will be many more pilgrims after Porto.

I am going to get a good night’s sleep for the energy I’ll need if I want to make Porto. I look forward to seeing what the Camino brings tomorrow.

Best wishes to all,

Ted

Please excuse the typos, spelling, grammar, etc., as I am typing this on my phone, and I am probably pretty tired.

If you would like to see the Alzheimer’s Association website, see our team page, and donated, please go to:

act.alz.org/goto/tedstrek

Leaving Albergaria a Velha with the eerie glow of the smoke as the sun rises

Smoke in every direction you look

Walking by one of the town parks

The Camino back into the eucalyptus forest, but not very long today

The Camino traveling through a grape vineyard. The structure is a religious display with a large stone cross inside

Walking through Oliveira de Azeméis

Municipal building in Oliveira de Azeméis

One of the many beautiful churches

Camino on one of the narrow streets in a small village

Heavy commute traffic on that same narrow street

I had to move to the side to let him pass

Sao João in the distance

Beautiful water fountain traffic circle in Sao João

My hotel, S.A. Sao João Madeira. That’s my room, the 7th floor balcony on the right. I slept with the sliding door open.

View of the Plaza from my balcony. That’s Lindsay and Ann’s hotel on the left

View from my room

My room

Bath

k

Having dinner with Lindsay (L) and Ann (R)

All you can eat great sushi!

All you can eat Chinese, Japanese, and Mongolian BBQ.

There was so much I had to be very selective

I’ll be thinking of this tomorrow when I am hungry on the Camino

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Elevation for the day. Lots of steep climbs

My trek today

My trek today

My trek today