Cepaes to Carreco (20.83 miles/33.54 km)

Today was a real mix of a day, which started well, then was a bit of a challenge, and then ended wonderfully.

Paul and I started out together today, but only trekked together for part of the morning. Yesterday we actually never trekked together because we missed each other as we were on two different Camino routes. There are two that run parallel but through different terrain and even elevations. The main Camino route is noted on the map in blue, and the alternate one is noted in red.

Today there was a huge difference where they traveled. Paul stopped for lunch and I continued on, and he suggested the alternate one he had done, the red route, and I am so glad I did because it was one of the nicest stretches on this Camino, and it was a great ending to my day.

Out of Cepaes the Camino traveled through residential neighborhoods, and on one of my least favorite surfaces, cobblestones. My shin splints were bothering me as soon as I started out, and the cobblestone streets with the uneven surface caused a constant twisting of my ankles and legs and irritated the shin splints.

For the last two days the terrain has been completely flat, but that changed as the Camino turned inland and over a small range of hills. First it started up the winding narrow cobblestone streets and then moved onto a dirt path through a forest. This was a challenge because it was strewn with large boulders that were hard to get over and through. Luckily Paul was behind me and several times he had to lift the Wheelie from the rear over the rocks. Anyone else hiking this section would have loved the trail and scenery.

The Camino then cross a little river on a flat stone bridge. Later it moved back onto a steep cobblestone street to a church at the top of a hill which overlooks the city and valley below.

From the church it went up a steep dirt trail into a forest, with sections covered in huge stones. The terrain and surfaces were definitely different than the last two days, as was the temperature. By afternoon it was 92 degrees (33c) and I was back to sweating, which I haven’t really done the last two days.

After the rocky trail down I decided to trek on a road that ran parallel to the Camino to keep from irritating my shin splints. At times the Camino seems to follow unnecessary back roads and steep climbs to avoid roads that are more direct and have good shoulders or sidewalks. I stayed on this asphalt road for several miles until it merged with the Camino at Aria.

I had walked without Paul much of the morning and met him in Aria, but that was short lived because he stopped for lunch and I continued on. On Paul’s advise, I decided to take the alternate Camino that ran directly along the coast. At first I was a little nervous thinking I had made the wrong choice because I didn’t see another pilgrims the first few miles, and never did the rest of the day.

The alternate Camino is not marked with signs or yellow arrows and I had to constantly check the mapping program. It started through the harbor area and then along the beach. Most of the way was on a nice concrete and painted asphalt bike and pedestrian path. It was so nice that I expected it to dead end or move onto a sandy beach path, but it never did. Once the past the popular beach areas the path turned to hard packed decomposed granite, which was a dream to walk on with the Wheelie and easy on my shin splints.

From here all the way to Carreco, almost four miles, it was absolutely beautiful and one of the nicest parts of this Camino. The path was wide and ran right next to the beaches and cliffs. Most of it was on the decomposed granite, and small sections were wide boardwalks. The wind was lightly blowing and it was nice and cool. I saw less than ten people on the path and felt I had it all to myself.

The views were beautiful and the coastline ranged from pebble strewn coves to pockets of sandy beaches. There were also the remains of six to eight beautiful old stone windmills perched along the coastline.

I found the few lodging places in Carreco and most already full. By chance I found a private house with rooms and dorms close by. Only one shared two person dorm was available, but I did not want to share a room. I have to admit that I recognized the owner’s accent as Dutch, and I started speaking to him in Dutch. The next thing I knew, he said he would give it to me as a private room, and he would only charge me €20 ($22), so I reserved it.

It took me about twenty minutes to get there and I arrived at about 4:45. I did my usual chores, but had nothing to eat and all the restaurants were a few miles away in town. I passed one restaurant over a mile back but did not want to walk, so I borrowed the owner’s bike and rode to the restaurant. It turned out to be a nice place, with a friendly owner. Nothing on the menu sounded good, so she made me a special meal of baked fish, rice, and salad. Ok, I also had a piece of homemade strawberry cheesecake. That along with a beer was €12 ($13).

I made it a point to come back early so I could write my blog, but I ended up chatting with four Russians I had seen on the Camino that were staying here. There were also two German women and a British man staying there. One of the things I love about the Camino is the people from all over the world you meet.

I ended up talking with the Russians late into the night, as I was fun talking with them. Just as I was about to call it a night, Liubov, said she had something for me. They had brought something along for a special occasion, and they all felt I was special. She pulled out a small metal box that she had been carrying for such an occasion and handed me two pieces of chocolate. Wow, I thought walking that last stretch of beautiful beach was the highlight of my day, but this definitely topped that! I don’t think my day could have ended any better!

Best wishes to all,

Ted

Please excuse the typos, spelling, grammar, etc., as I am typing this on my phone, and I am probably pretty tired.

If you would like to see the Alzheimer’s Association website, see our team page, and donated, please go to:

act.alz.org/goto/tedstrek

Tough going on the Camino today

Slow going

It’s all tough with the Wheelie

Crossing a stream

Actually, one of the easier sections

The stream

The church at the top of the steep hill

The view from the top

Another tough boulder strewn section

A small church and old cemetery

My least favorite road surface, cobblestone

The bridge crossing. Note the wrap for my painful shin splints

The bridge crossing into Viana do Castelo

The walkway

The Camino and the old stone windmills

The Camino all to myself

What great scenery and solitude today

The Camino on the boardwalk

The main Camino runs along the base of the hills in the distance. Glad I chose the alternate along the water.

A small private chapel

Finally made it to my lodging for the night

Entry to my room

Not fancy, but private and all I could find, and for €20

Riding off to dinner

Dinner

Ok, dessert too

My new Russian Camino friends, Max, Andrei, Anita (me), and Liubov.

The special gift to me by my new Russian friends. It may seem small but what a gift!

The Camino map. Blue notes the main route and the red notes the alternate route.

The elevation for the day. Definitely not all flat today!

My trek today.

My trek today