Villanueva de Campean to Montamarta (24.47 miles / 39.40 k)

Today was a long day, again not really my first choice. I left my usual time of around eight and immediately started the Camino out the front door of the alberque. It’s was 40 degrees in the morning and stayed fairly cool until about noon. Then it never got over seventy all day. What a huge change from just three days ago when the heat was so brutal.

The walk to Zamora was uneventful and went through mainly the same scenery as the last few days, brown and dry harvested wheat fields for as far as you could see. Not to be negative about the scenery, because I am sure that it is beautifully green in winter and Spring. 

My plan was to go through Zamora and stop at the little town of Roales del Pan, which is about four miles north. We had talked about it last night at diner and we knew there was a small four bed alberque there and I didn’t want to have to go the extra eight miles to the next town of Montamarta.

When I reached the summit over looking the valley to Zamora, I was pleasantly surprised how close it was. I should know better as it took me over two hours to get there. The surface on the dirt road wasn’t too bad other than the soft sandy areas that made pulling the Wheelie a little more work. 

I was still feeling like I was out of energy most of the morning like yesterday even though I had plenty to eat for breakfast and I had snacks. I usually don’t feel this way starting out and it was generally late in the day because of the heat. I think it is because I have gone so long without taking a day off and I have had many days where I have gone well over twenty to twenty-five miles. I haven’t taken a zero day as I missed several days due to my sickness, and I want to make sure I have enough time to finish.

When I crossed the bridge into Zamora I was amazed how beautiful the scene was of the river and the cathedral. I know Zamora is another beautiful Spanish town, but as I mentioned before, the bigger towns are difficult to navigate while following the Camino markers, and I like the serenity of the small towns and villages.

I had just crossed the bridge when a man stopped me and pointed me in the opposite direction of the Camino arrows. He told me to go left and that would get me around the busy business area. That sounded great, and as I turned around he acknowledge it was the right direction. Well, about a half mile later I felt totally lost. Wrong Way Ted here. I was going to the outskirts of town but it seemed in the wrong direction. 

I was in the middle of a residential neighborhood and stopped a man and asked him for help. He pointed me in the right direction and after about half a hour I was back on the Camino, but still in Zamora. I figure I lost at least a hour or more taking that short cut around the business district, and here I am, in the business district. 

I felt pretty tired and thought about staying in Zamora. No, I’ll go the few extra miles and get that alberque in Roales del Pan. Almost two hours later, and even more tired, I arrived there. But, where is that alberque? It’s no longer there, as I was told by the man I stopped to ask!

I just felt a knot in my stomach because I didn’t have much of an option. Either I go back four miles to Zamora, or eight miles to Montamarta. This is when I would have loved my tent! I just didn’t think I had it in me today to go any further, but that’s when you just realize you have to do it as there is no other choice. 

I just sat down and loaded up on some energy food, a banana, plum, dates, almonds, and ice tea. I imagined the ten to twelve miles I usually walk at home every four or five days a week, and put the eight miles into perspective, and realized it wasn’t that far. I just got in a rhythm and made it a point not to stop, or think of anything negative, and before I knew it, I was there. 

I stopped at the first alberque at the edge of town. It was a municiple one and I could see four or five pairs of boots on the steps. Not for me tonight! I want something special as I deserved it, and I knew there was a hotel here. 

I stop to ask a man where it was and he took me right across the street. Just as we got there, the owner came out and said hello to him. She gave him the typical European cheek kisses. I gave her a look like, hey what about me? She laughed and gave me a hug and the typical cheek kiss, and then one on my lips. Ok, she was a little older than me and was just being friendly. Or, was it a sales pitch?

I was sold when I saw the place. Gated, clean, and very beautiful, and only 25€ ($28), a bit more than my 6€ last night. It has a living room and kitchen, free wash machine, and even a pool. If I had only gotten here earlier. 

Sure enough, Mikio, the Japanese pilgrim was there. He got here a hour before me and probably didn’t get lost. 

There was one other pilgrim here from Belgium, Michael. He started in Sevilla and has been walking for one month. He is going slow and is running out of time and will be stopping in a few days and then will return next year. 

The three of us went to diner across the street at a nice bar. This is the third time I have had diner with Mikio!

Tomorrow will be a short day as the next town is about thirteen miles, and the town after that another eighteen. I plan to sleep a bit later in the morning and will make it a short by stopping at thirteen miles. I need to give myself a little rest and tomorrow’s stretch will be perfect for that. 

And just as I am finishing writing this, it’s starting to rain hard! That will certainly change the day!

Best wishes,

Ted

Sunrise on the Camino 

The Camino Via de la Plata markers 

Zamora in the distance looking falsely close

Entering Zamora 

Zamora with the cathedral overlooking the rio 

View from the bridge looks like a postcard 

My home for the night. Door at the top of the stairway 

View of the courtyard and pool. 

My room and king size bed. I deserved this today.

Nice bath. You get a lot for your money in Spain.

The common area just for the pilgrims. 

I jinxed myself by saying I haven’t had any knee issues. Not in seven years, or my treks locally, or to Canada, or the Camino Francis. What and why now? Swollen left knee.